Brian Castner is the author of the new book Disappointment River: Finding and Losing the Northwest Passage. His other books include The Long Walk and All the Ways We Kill and Die, and his work has appeared in a variety of publications, including The New York Times and The Washington Post.
Q: Why did you decide to focus on Alexander Mackenzie’s 1789 exploration of North America in your new book, and travel the route yourself?
A: Like many of us, I learned in school that the first
expedition to cross North America belonged to Lewis and Clark. So when I
stumbled upon Alexander Mackenzie's story -- accidentally, in an errant Google
search -- and realized that my fourth grade teacher was wrong, that Mackenzie
had done it a dozen years before, I had that exciting flash of inspiration that
every writer craves.
My first thought was, "How have I never heard of this
man?" I looked for a biography of Mackenzie, and discovered the most
recent major work was over 80 years old. There seemed potential for a modern
retelling.
Mackenzie took two great journeys: a successful crossing of
the continent in 1793, and a 1789 expedition that Mackenzie called a
"disappointment."
I focused on that disappointing trip for a few reasons.
Despite Mackenzie's opinion at the time, it proved the more lasting geographic
contribution. And he was joined by great characters, especially his indigenous
guide, a Chipewyan trading chief named Awgeenah, who deserves to be at least as
well-known as Sacagawea.
But most importantly, I knew it was physically possible for
me to recreate Mackenzie's 1789 journey, and I thought that the intertwining of
the two stories, the modern travelogue with the historical narrative, would be
compelling for readers.
Mackenzie was searching for a Northwest Passage, a route to
the Pacific, and considered his expedition a failure because it ended at the
Arctic Ocean instead. Mackenzie was blocked by summer pack ice. I had a strong
suspicion that if I paddled the river, I'd see something else at the end of my
journey.
Q: The book includes sections on your own travels and
sections on Mackenzie’s. Did you write the book in the order in which it
appears?
A: Not even remotely. I've developed the habit of writing
the end of the book first, so I know where the story is going, and then
constantly reworking the open, to earn that ending I've set up. Maybe that's
the habit of a magazine writer, to focus on the lead -- if you don't hook the
reader from the start, they'll never get to your compelling finish.
Once I dove into the meat of the book, I began with
Mackenzie's early life, doing the historical research about Scotland in the
1770s, the Revolutionary War in New York, and the establishment of cities like
Detroit.
Also, before my canoe trip in the summer of 2016, I
learned the history of the Mackenzie valley, so I would understand what I was
encountering on my journey. I took Mackenzie's journal along on my trip, to
compare his daily routine to mine, and make sure I hit every landmark.
When I got back from my trip, I immediately wrote up the
travelogue, while it was fresh in my mind. Then, as a last step, I could go
back and weave in the historical sections, of Mackenzie and Awgeenah.
I spend a lot of time on structure and pacing. It can be a
cold process, but if it works, the reader just feels swept along on the
journey, and doesn't notice how they got there.
Q: Can you say more about how you researched the historical
sections of the book, and what did you learn that especially surprised you?
A: This may sound odd, but I was fortunate in that most of
Mackenzie's letters and papers burned in a fire at his estate. All that we have
are his expedition journals, and the letters saved by his cousin Roderic and
the fur-trading cabal known as the North West Company.
This made my research manageable, as I could read and study
in-depth every single surviving word. The same is true for other major figures
of that time, and not a single letter from the illiterate voyageurs is known to
exist. So while the stack of books I read for background was 10 feet tall, and
I had to visit archives in Montreal and Quebec City, it could have been a lot
worse.
The surprising thing I discovered in my research, though, is
how much is available from the Dene, Gwich'in, and Inuvialuit, the indigenous
nations that live in the Mackenzie valley.
I decided from the moment that I began this project, that
one thing I could provide, in a contemporary retelling, was a greater focus on
Mackenzie's companions.
All the old biographies made it sound like he did all the
work himself, when in reality he was accompanied by five voyageurs, two of
their wives, and Awgeenah, plus two of his wives and two young Chipewyan
hunters, who would supply the expedition with food. Each had an important role
to play.
So as much as possible, I wanted to be able to tell their
stories, and the stories of the people Mackenzie met along the way. In recent
years, those nations, the Gwich'in especially, have published extensive oral
histories. The Gwich'in are working hard to save their language; there's even a
@speakgwichin Twitter account.
And so I was able to include incredible background and
context for Mackenzie's journey, that would not have been possible even 10
years ago, before these elders were interviewed and their stories published.
Q: What would you say is Mackenzie’s legacy today?
A: Mackenzie is central to the history of our continent, but
you wouldn't know it from his contemporary legacy; that's one reason I wrote
the book, to hopefully remedy that a bit.
In the United States, Mackenzie is virtually unknown outside
of history buff circles. That's unfortunate, as we Americans can certainly
claim him -- he was a immigrant to New York City in 1775.
The lands he crossed eventually became part of Canada, but
at the time he transited them, they were unmapped and subject to competing
claims between the British, French, Spanish, and Americans, often fighting each
other, and the indigenous nations whose lands they had usurped. It was an open
question of which state or empire would rule North America.
But even in Canada, Mackenzie is a figure a little like
Daniel Boone or Davy Crockett, a name people know, even if they aren't sure
exactly why.
I spoke with a historian at the Fort William Historical
Park, the site of the old fur trading rendezvous on Lake Superior. The place is
kind of like a Canadian version of Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia.
This historian was part of the bicentennial re-enactment of
Mackenzie's 1789 journey, they dressed up in costumes and paddled birchbark
canoes, and they gave presentations in schools.
Whenever they trotted out the actor playing Mackenzie, and
asked the schoolchildren who it was, he said the kids all gave the same answer:
Abraham Lincoln. So even in Canada, Mackenzie's stock is undervalued.
I should say, the obvious answer to this question of legacy
is to note that the river Mackenzie paddled is now named for him. The Mackenzie
River system is the second longest in North America, and the section I paddled,
1125 miles from Great Slave Lake to the Arctic, is so enormous as to defy
comprehension. In many places, you can't even see the other side of the river.
A giant river should be a giant legacy. But having spent 40
days on that river, by the end, I stopped calling it the Mackenzie at all. In
my own head, I use the traditional Dene name, the Deh Cho. Many Dene will tell
you: "Mackenzie only paddled the river once, why did they name it for
him?"
The Deh Cho is an ancient powerful river, and the Dene have
lived on its banks for tens of thousands of years, and by the end of my trip,
it felt presumptuous to label it with the name of a far away white man.
Q: What are you working on now?
A: I love the challenge of narrative nonfiction, combining
journals and newspaper stories and interviews and histories into one
synthesized thread. My favorite books, like Tom Wolfe's The Right
Stuff or David Grann's Lost City of Z, are stories that take
you on a wild ride, and by the end you can't believe it's all factual and real.
So I hesitate to say exactly what the topic of the next book
is, but it is historical narrative, involves the frozen north again, and
includes every kind of disaster and calamity imaginable. Like Mackenzie, it's
another case where I said, "How come I don't already know all about
this?"
Q: Anything else we should know?
A: The most interesting person I met on my journey was a
Sahtu Dene elder named Wilfred Jackson. He has lived most of his life on the
land, in a network of camps that spanned hundreds of square miles, hunting and
fishing according to the seasons.
I stayed in his home for three days, and he told me the most
incredible stories. Nearly all of them were about change. About the snow coming
later every year, about his grandchildren moving away, about the young people
who would rather watch satellite television than take on his hard life on the
land.
Every few hours, completely out of the blue, he would say,
"Almost all the old timers are dead." He was so generous and gentle.
And if our modern global economy doesn't destroy his nation, climate change
will.
--Interview with Deborah Kalb
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